Loomtogs, Inc. 1946-1951
Jeanne and her husband, Bud, had settled in New York City after
the war. After some small design jobs (that included designing
luxurious slippers for Gustave Inc.), in 1946, Jeanne's career
was starting to take flight. The prominent post-war designers were
creating a new "American Style" and Jeanne's innovative
ideas would express the look.
She landed a designing job at Loomtogs, Inc., located at 1370 Broadway,
a moderately priced sportswear house. (Their tag line was, "Always
Look for the Loomtogs Girl!") Jeanne developed her ideas in
casual and sports "togs"-- from bathing suits and beach
wear, she then branched out into separates. Many were promoted
as resort wear or college fashions (-the youth market was starting
to grow). She learned that designers at Loomtogs weren't usually
kept on very long, but Jeanne was to stay season after season,
for five years.
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Playsuit: bodice, shorts and skirt in
printed pique, by Jeanne Campbell, 1947
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"The salary wasn't very high and maybe that's one reason why
they thought it was worth while to gamble on me," Jeanne said
in an interview with Beryl Williams. Jeanne's clothes were very
well
received by the buyers, and sales were on the rise.
The time at the house of Loomtogs proved to be very demanding
and rewarding, working under President Arnold Schoenfeld. Jeanne
wore many hats there having to use every technical and creative
design ability she knew. With only one sample maker in the big
Loomtogs workroom, Jeanne often had to translate her sketches into
made-up dress samples, and to work closely with the patternmaker
until her original idea was transformed into a product that could
be profitably duplicated. She even spent some time talking with
the buyers in the showroom. Jeanne was involved in all aspects
of the firm to ensure the success of her line.
Loomtogs
devoted a great deal of energy toward promotion, and received a
good deal of press because of it. One promotion, released
June 6, 1947, was to increase sales by marketing a "package" called "Autumn-Mates".
Coordinating separates like shirts, slacks, jackets, culottes,
etc. wasn't a new idea, but they claimed that using colors to be
mated with other colors to "harmoniously blend with each other" was
new. Newspapers and large department stores responded well. Loomtogs
revived their promotional name, "Shufflemates", during
their 1948 resort-line. It was the first post-war season for this
name revival.
Another promotion Jeanne was involved with was a Whistler-inspired
fashion show. The Guild of New York Dress Designers, a new organization
at that time, had an extravagant art-fashion show at the Brooklyn
Museum on June 3rd, 1948. Jeanne's layered "apron-effect" in
combinations of fabrics, made all the papers. (For more on this
and the Brooklyn Museum, go to the Industrial
Division/Design Laboratory section.)
In an article in the New York Herald Tribune, 11/10/48, Eugenia
Sheppard wrote about Jeanne's love of color, her hobby of interior
decorating, and a summery line of beach coats, tubular bathing
suits, shorts, and slacks of iridescent denims, destined to be
best sellers. Ms. Sheppard was right! She also went on to say, "Jeanne's
own favorite creation is a wool-backed orange satin hostess coat-
proof of her theory that best evening clothes just carry sportswear
silhouettes into fancier fabrics. She lined the orange coat with
chartreuse and adds high velvet boots that button up the back." Eugenia
ended the picture filled article by saying, "After this her
big ambition won't surprise you--to be a topflight, big name American
designer." Ms. Sheppard was right again.
Fashion
magazines and newspapers were showing Jeanne's Loomtogs designs
all the time. The New York Times, Glamour, Mademoiselle, Women's
Wear Daily, Life, Vogue, the New York Herald Tribune were a few
that Loomtogs appeared in. Even in a movie magazine- "Modern
Screen", June 1949, showed Ava Gardner modeling Jeanne's striped
corded cotton chambray, halter sun-dress to promote her latest
movie. They said, "Ava, the luscious, whom you're currently
drooling over in MGM's "The Great Sinner", wears a sundress
that rates prolonged whistles...and will do the same for you any
weekend at all.
In the March 15, 1949 Women's Wear Daily article titled, "Traveling
Designers Return With New Views on Under-Sun Colors", three
sportswear designers, Jeanne Campbell, Greta Plattry, and Stanley
Wyllins (of Ciro), were interviewed after coming back from winter
vacations in tropical climates. The article illustrates how Jeanne's
opinions about color and pattern were becoming a vogue "barometer" of
fashion.
"JEANNE CAMPBELL of Loomtogs, Inc., sunned at Montego Bay, Jamaica,
and now calls vivid-but-cool Caribbean colors her favorites for
sun clothes. For example, seagreens, greenish blues and turquoise
in patterned fabrics, with a little white "relief", looked
particularly right to her at this vacation spot."
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Jeanne also designed
an outfit that was reminiscent of the 1920's flapper era. It was
to receive a great deal of popularity and it shook up the press.
The revival outfit was simple, but very unlike the fashions of
the era, it had a loose waist and proved very popular with the
college aged girls. It was a navy wool jersey middy top with a
real sailor collar, hip slits (with buttons) which tapered in slightly
at the waistline, and a straight, navy serge knife-pleated skirt.
Jeanne's updated "flapper" middy outfit appeared in the
June 15, 1949 Women's Wear Daily article titled "the Big Nine
in College Fashions", and it was also featured in the Aug.
issue of Glamour Magazine. More press followed in the fall from
The New York Times, Oct. 13, 1949 under the heading,"'Flapper'
of 1920's is Back in Style", and the navy outfit appeared
again in the Oct. 24th issue of Life Magazine's article, "Does
the American Woman Need a New Figure?" In the latter, both
a popular trend in a revival short hair style called the "shingle",
and Jeanne's outfit, illustrated what seemed to be a fear that
fashion trends were bringing back the '20's silhouette and its "bustless,
boyish shape".
Jeanne had to come up with many diverse summer clothes as this
was Loomtogs biggest line, as well as a small late winter cruise
line, and fall sportswear. She was versatile, dreaming up playful,
active, comfortable, and practical clothes (like pockets- deep
enough so you really can use them) that suited her lifestyle as
well. She considered herself a model for other women by drawing
upon her life's experiences. Jeanne knew what sort of clothes would
hold up well and what fabrics were durable too. Early she used
denims, patterned and plain. Then striped corduroys were her specialty,
and then she favored patchwork quilted skirts, lined with calico,
for the holidays. The combination of good looks, fun and practicality
would become Jeanne's signature in fashion.
In a New York Times article, Oct. 1st, 1951, fashion editor, Virginia
Pope interviewed Jeanne. In her "Patterns of The Times: American
Designer Series", under the heading, "Casual and Sports
Togs by Jeanne Campbell Show Young Spirit", Virginia wrote "In
youth lies the future of American designing. Unaffected by European
influences, it offers us an untrammeled expression of young America.
Our designer today exemplifies this spirit."
A pattern, by Jeanne Campbell of Loomtogs, of a very versatile "halter
apron" was made available for home dressmakers by mail from
the Times.
"It was a good time to be getting into sportswear," Jeanne
explains, as if half-apologizing for her quick success. "It
was the moment when casual sports clothes were beginning to mean
more than they ever had before--when they were coming to have some
of the importance they have today." An excerpt from Beryl
Williams' 1956 book, "Young Faces in Fashion".
By the end of 1951, the originality and quality of the designs
Ms. Campbell had produced at Loomtogs won her Mademoiselle's Merit
Award in Fashion. (Other Loomtogs luminaries include designers:
Donald Brooks, John Weitz, and Leo Narducci. See Honors for more
info. on the Mademoiselle award.)
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